New home for the Cat 22 Keel

You may remember when I got the Catalina 22 replacement keel last year.  I threw some wheels on a shipping pallet and put the keel on the pallet.   Pretty fancy huh?

wheels repaired and pallet re-loaded

Fancy Pallet stand for Catalina 22 keel

Recently, I bought the video on repairing a Catalina 22 keel from Catalina Direct.  In it they show the steps for reconditioning the keel.  This weekend I took the first step down that path and put the keel in a vertical stand so it can be worked on.

The first thing I did was use my engine hoist to pick the keel up.  Well, actually I picked up one end.  It’s pretty long and the hoist isn’t big enough to lift it completely.  Remember this this thing weighs between 500 and 600 pounds, so moving it around isn’t trivial.

Lifting the keel

Lifting the keel

Then I took the wheels from the pallet along with some 2×4 scraps left over from “the project that must not be named”, and made a new support frame.  It was a simple matter of lowering the keel onto the new support and Wa-La, the keel is ready.

Keel on new stand - ready for work

Keel on new stand – ready for work

Wow, that keel needs a lot of work.  A nice thing about this stand is that it takes up way less room than the pallet.

You’ll notice a sunfish on sawhorses in the background of the first picture.  I also did a bit of work there.   More on that next time.

 

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12 thoughts on “New home for the Cat 22 Keel

  1. Well, mine’s ground down and I got an attractive quote for sandblasting, so I’ll probably do it in the next two or three weeks after I order the refinishing supplies. BTW, I found a nasty cavity underneath the paint and bondo, almost big enough to stick my hand in. A couple other guys are doing theirs now too and posting even worse pictures online. Don’t be surprised if yours has a hidden birth defect, be surprised if it doesn’t.

    And oh yeah, you’re behind in the race now ; )

    • I’m curious too! I’ve had an injury (severely sprained ankle & foot) that has slowed me down considerably. I wasn’t successful in finding a local fiberglass guide to help me glass the bolts back in, so as soon as I’m mobile again I’m going to get it professionally done.

      I’ll be super busy with work for the next 6 months, so my plan is to refinish the swing keel in early spring.

      • Sorry to hear about the injury, best wishes for a speedy recovery.

        The 2015 Swing Keel Rebuild-Off is on! Last one done wins the other’s leftover fairing compound. But they have to show the other guy pictures of their keel matching the CD foil template with the keel on the boat. Game?

      • Me too! I’m tired of having two broken boats hanging around and having to bum rides on other boats. You may get my used fairing compound yet!

        By the way, I can’t believe the advice on that Keel repair CD is to use Bondo. Are you going to do that?

      • I haven’t decided yet. If the price is negligible for marine fairing compound, I’ll probably go that way just to be safe.

        Seems to me that if the bare iron is adequately sealed under the Bondo and over the Bondo with epoxy, the Bondo is just for shape and its tough enough. But…it’s also something that I don’t want to fail EVER.

        I have the feeling it’s going to be what I call a dog fight of a project to drop the keel, haul it around for sandblasting, flip it over and over to work on it, and then get it back into the trunk all by myself.

        On the other hand, I’m looking forward to it being done. With the new bottom paint, it looks like a big scab hanging underneath. And, although I can’t measure it, it’s got to be affecting speed and pointing ability. One side looks nearly flat, the other concave, and the whole keel looks tilted a few degrees from vertical.

        The tilt could be caused by the brackets. I know they’re not identical. The bolts of one are shorter than the other. I need to sort that out while I’m at it.

      • Have you considered simply using a grinder .vs. sandblasting? I got a needle scaler and was planning on using that and a grinder.

        Also, I read somewhere that it’s flat on one side because the keels were cast in the sand of a Mexican beach. The sand side produced a curve shape, but the top remained flat. Supposedly makes the boat point better on one side than on the other. Have you found that to be the case?

      • I considered a grinder but I only have a 4″ at present. For that job, I’d want an 8″ or 10″ to git ‘er done. Even then, there would probably be deeper pores with rust in them that I wouldn’t want to pass over and that would take a lot of extra grinding. Maybe if I use a rust neutralizer like mentioned in the DVD. I haven’t checked into the cost of sandblasting yet either, so that might persuade me.

        I’ve read that about the Mexican casting too. At times, I’ve thought that one side pointed better than the other but I didn’t take the time to try to accurately compare them under the same conditions. The winds tend to shift a lot where I sail and I’m not confident that my Windex tacking indicators are at identical angles. Maybe I’ll notice after the rebuild. That’s what happened with the new bottom paint. I din’t notice any higher top speed but the speed in light winds is noticeably better.

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